Dining in Istanbul
Istanbul is a city famous for its food, and for good reason. I was once on a plane from Istanbul to Dubai and a couple of Turkish men who were visiting Dubai for the first time asked me where they could find Turkish food. I found it odd considering part of the reason you would visit somewhere new is to experience something new, but perhaps they wanted ot have a backup just incase they did not find what they were looking for! Turkish food has been spread to the Middle East via the Ottoman empire, so a lot of the Kebabs you get in Lebanese cuisine are originally Turkish. For example "Orfali" kebab refers to the city of Urfa, and "Antabli" kebab to Gaziaantep. Apart from Kebabs, you can find great fish restaurants, and lots of cafe's with wonderful views of the bosphorus. Bear in mind the list below is a personal list of places my brother and I have visited. We don't go to the Asian side often, and since we don't live in Istanbul, I'm sure we have missed many great locations. However, know that if a restaurant made it on to this list it is probably pretty awesome! One other thing, Meyhane's, which are kind of like Taverna's are also quite a popular place to eat and drink in Turkey, however we do not have any below because unfortunately that's something we are not too familiar with. In the coming months, I will try and find out the good one's to include them here.
Kebap - Kebab
Venge
As far as I'm concerned Venge may as well be the only restaurant on this list. Hands down my favourite spot for kebabs, I would recommend you try this at least once and judge for yourselves. However, bear in mind that just like with movies, restaurants that are built up too much inevitibly dissapoing, so try to keep your expectations realistic. I would recommend the Beyti Kebap (Kebab wrapped in a soft bread), Saksuka (Fried eggplant in garlic yoghurt), and Gavurdag Salad (Tomato salad with pomegranate dressing). They will also recommend other things there, but these are the items on the menu that stand out as far as I remember. I would also highly recommend the Kunefe with Cheese. I have only been to their 4. Levent location, but after checking online, it seems that they have opened another one in the nightclub Sortie, so I would recommend you try that before a night of clubbing. The address below is the original one, details for Sortie can be found on the Bars/Clubs page.
Address: Akasyali Sokak No.2, 4. Levent
Telephone #: (0212) 2640720
Official Website: http://www.venge.com.tr/
Address: Akasyali Sokak No.2, 4. Levent
Telephone #: (0212) 2640720
Official Website: http://www.venge.com.tr/
Borsa
Borsa is a slightly more boring/formal environment when it comes to Kebab restaurants. As far as I am aware they have two locations (do not be fooled by the restaurant on Istiklal street called Borsa, that is not related). They have one location in the convention centre by Hilton near Taksim, and another one in Istinye Park, the mall I highly recommended in the Shopping section. Although based on the above you may wonder why Borsa is on this lsit, truth is they have excellent food, excellent service, and if you are looking to have a kebab in a more classy environment, Borsa is your place. You won't find many tourists, and you may be in the prescence of a celebrity or two without knowing it. I was once a few tables away from the former (and I mean way former) Miss Turkey winner - Hulya Avsar.
Address: Lutfi Kirdar Uluslararasi Kongre ve Sergi Sarayi, 80230 Harbiye
Telephone: 0212 232 42 01-02
Website: http://borsarestaurant.com/#/anasayfa/
Address: Lutfi Kirdar Uluslararasi Kongre ve Sergi Sarayi, 80230 Harbiye
Telephone: 0212 232 42 01-02
Website: http://borsarestaurant.com/#/anasayfa/
Hamdi
Hamdi features on this list for a few reasons. One, it has a fantastic view of the Galata bridge. Two, in terms of location it is the closest Kebap restaurant to the touristic area of Sultan Ahmet recommended by us, and finally three, because the food is actually really really good. Istanbul is a big city, and when planning where you will go and what you will eat, you have to consider travel times etc. This is definitely one to plug in with your visits to the bazaar or the historic sites, especially if you are heading back over the Galata bridge and want to grab am early dinner.
Address: Tahmis Caddesi Kalcin Sokak No: 17, Eminonu
Telephone: 0212 528 03 90
Official Website: www.hamdi.com.tr
Address: Tahmis Caddesi Kalcin Sokak No: 17, Eminonu
Telephone: 0212 528 03 90
Official Website: www.hamdi.com.tr
Beyti
Beyti is a classic Turkish restaurant that has been popular for years! I was surprised to find out myself that the restaurant was founded in 1945 in Kurucesme and has been in its current location (Florya) for almost 30 years. Even more surprising is that the restaurant served U.S. president Richard Nixon on board Air Force One on his first official trip to Europe. So obviously, the quality of kebab here is next to none! The one inconvenience though, is that Beyti is located fairly far out of town, but close to the airport. It would probably be best to make it your first or last meal in Istanbul unless you don't mind taking a taxi there and back.
Address: Orman Sokak No 8 Florya
Telephone: 0212 663 29 90
Official Website: www.beyti.com
Address: Orman Sokak No 8 Florya
Telephone: 0212 663 29 90
Official Website: www.beyti.com
Yuzevler
On almost every kebab restaurant in Turkey, and many Arabic restaurants as well, you will find an item on the menu called Adana Kebap (Adana Kebab), a dish that owes it's name to the city of it's origin, Adana, in the south of Turkey. The reason I mention this is that Yuzevler prides itself of being one of the most well known restaurants from Adana, in Istanbul. This gives them a considerable amount of credibility when it comes to expertise in Kebab making! The location pictured here is at the home stadium of one of three of the Istanbul giants, which also happens to be the team I support, Galatasaray. I had no idea they had a restaurant that overlooked the stadium (remember, I don't live in Istanbul so I miss a lot of things too), but I imagine it would be hard to get a table while a game is on. Luckily Yuzevler has another location in Etiler which I have personally sampled and can tell you is excellent for kebabs. The atmosphere is pretty good too, but the football theme seems to continue there as well as I remember they like to keep the TV's on showing the games, so if you would rather not be in that environment, then forget you ever read this.
Address: Nispetiye Caddesi No: 10
Telephone: 0212 287 01 01
Official Website: www.yuzevler.com.tr
Address: Nispetiye Caddesi No: 10
Telephone: 0212 287 01 01
Official Website: www.yuzevler.com.tr
Antiochia
Antiochia, which is Antakya in French (?) represents food from the Turkish region of the same name. It is a fairly small restaurant located in a side street of Istanbul, but it has become quite popular due to the quality of the grilled meats. I would highly recommend a quick visit here if you are on Istiklal street and want a good but casual kebab option. They also have some wonderful vegetarian Mezze (small starter platters) for those of you who aren't big meat eaters.
Address: Minare Sokak 21, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0212 292 11 00
Official Website: http://www.antiochiaconcept.com/
Address: Minare Sokak 21, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0212 292 11 00
Official Website: http://www.antiochiaconcept.com/
Cafe's/Casual Dining
Assk Cafe (Ashk Cafe)
Ask Cafe, pronounced Ashk and meaning "love" in Turkish, is really a fantastic spot to spend a lazy afternoon staring at the boats gliding up and down the Bosphorus. It is not located next to a hub, it's kind of on the way between Ortakoy and Arnavutkoy, but I would recommend you go there towards the end of peoples lunch hour (so it's not super crowded) take a load off, and enjoy the scenery. They have some really tasty desserts (cheesecake especially) and it's a good break from all the hustle and bustle of Istanbul.
Address: Muallim Naci Caddesi, No: 64/B, Kurucesme, Besiktas
Telephone #: 0212 2654734
Official Website: www.asskkahve.com
Address: Muallim Naci Caddesi, No: 64/B, Kurucesme, Besiktas
Telephone #: 0212 2654734
Official Website: www.asskkahve.com
House Cafe
You will find House cafe, House hotels and anything house related peppered throughout this website. Not because we have any relationship to the owners or we're just obsessed with it, but because they have expanded quite a lot in Istanbul in the last 5 years or so, and because they pay a lot of attention to detail in any of their offerings and especially in their interior decor/design. Their cafe's offer great food in a great environment, their hotels are well-decorated and comfortable and even though the hotels are good value by Istanbul standards the cafe is slightly over-priced. I think it's about 7-8 USD for a coffee but I may be wrong! House has many locations across the city, but I would recommend the one in Ortakoy (pictured on the left), the one in Istiklal street or the original one in Nisantasi (it is in the garden of a villa very close to another branch they have attached to the Tesvikiye mosque). Their mint lemonade is quite tasty and comes with thinly sliced apples - is that relevant you ask, probably not, but I thought I'd just throw it in there anyway.
Address: Check here for all locations, but the one in Ortakoy is really nice. The address is: Salhane Sokak, No: 1, Ortakoy
Telephone #: 0212 227 2699-39
Official Website: www.thehousecafe.com
Address: Check here for all locations, but the one in Ortakoy is really nice. The address is: Salhane Sokak, No: 1, Ortakoy
Telephone #: 0212 227 2699-39
Official Website: www.thehousecafe.com
Kichenette
Like House cafe, Kichenetter belongs to a group who have expanded pretty much around the same time in Istanbul. I believe their cafe/restaurant in the Marmara hotel in Taksim was their first outlet, and pretty soon it became so popular that they opened several more. I would recommend you visit the original site and even if you don't sit down, try their Turkish-style Focaccia bread - It is the best bread I have tasted in my life but because I don't want you to be disappointed I will tell you it's above average. I don't want to involve too many people's opinion in to this review but I kind of started liking Kichenette a bit less after realizing my grandmother had a point when she said it seems like a waiting hall in a train station rather than a restaurant. Kind of true, and I have tried to find a picture that reflects that, but it is right in the middle of Taksim square (where middle refers to the side of) so you can always have a look and judge for yourself.
Address: Several branches, you will find one under the Marmara Hotel in Taksim, but for all their branches, click here.
Official Website: www.kichenette.com.tr
Address: Several branches, you will find one under the Marmara Hotel in Taksim, but for all their branches, click here.
Official Website: www.kichenette.com.tr
Bebek Kahvesi
Bebek Kahvesi (Bebek Cafe) is situated in one of the trendiest residential neighborhoods in Istanbul. Bebek is a wonderful place to go for a walk on a cool summers day, and Bebek Kahvesi is one of the original spots where one would take a break for a cup of tea or coffee. Nowadays Bebek has a tone of other small restaurants/cafe's but it is worth paying homage to the original cafe by the water.
Address: Cevdet Pasa Caddesi, Bebek Mh.
Telephone: 0212 287 5607
Address: Cevdet Pasa Caddesi, Bebek Mh.
Telephone: 0212 287 5607
Yenikoy Kahvesi
On my most recent trip to Istanbul, I had a lovely breakfast at Yenikoy Kahvesi. It's not very central and really you need a car (or taxi) to get there, but it's a very cute place a few steps up the street in Yenikoy which a wonderful view, surrounded by greenery. They serve a delicious Turkish breakfast which is made up of cheeses, breads, jams, honey, eggs, etc. and just thinking about it makes me want to go back there! Most of the information is on their website so check it out if you have time.
Address: Kürkçü Faik sok. No:4 /Yeniköy/İstanbul
Phone Number: 0212 299 38 10
Address: Kürkçü Faik sok. No:4 /Yeniköy/İstanbul
Phone Number: 0212 299 38 10
Zencefil
If you find yourself taking my advice and ending up in Zencefil, it would be a mistake to say why has he put this place on his website. Yes, Zencefil, which means ginger in Turkish, is a fairly simple place, but it is this simplicity and serenity which makes it quite charming (in my opinion). Located in a parallel street to Istiklal, zencefil makes food that tastes relatively homemade and it's one of the few places on this website which is quite modest, but of a high standard. As a tourist in Istanbul, you will probably spend quite a lot of time in and around Istiklal street (in Taksim) so you really have nothing to lose by popping in for a quick bite. Worst case you can try their homemade lemonade. This also happens to be a great option for all the vegetarians out there.
Address: No.-8-10 Kurabiye Sokak, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0212 243 82 34
Address: No.-8-10 Kurabiye Sokak, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0212 243 82 34
On-the-go
Sultan Ahmet Koftecisi
This place does such good kofte (minced meat mixed with chopped onions, parsley and seasonings) that you will find others claiming to be the famous Sultan Ahmet Koftecisi all across the city. Don't be fooled, they have only one branch, in Sultan Ahmet and it looks like the one in the picture. Even 3 or 4 doors down you will find another one claiming to be the real thing (it's actually amusing to visit the web link below because if you go to the right a little bit you will see they have shown that other kofte place and just called it "kofteci". Now, with all this build up, I don't want to be disappointed, so let's put things in perspective, you're basically eating a Turkish mini burger. It's a kind of fat food but it is good, especially when consumed with Piyaz (a bean salad). This is a great way to take a break while visiting the old sites of the city as it is in close proximity to Hagia Sophia and the Blue mosque.
Website: www.sultanahmetkoftecisi.com
Address: Divanyolu Caddesi No. 12, 34122, Sultanahmet, Istanbul
Telephone: 0212 520 05 66
Website: www.sultanahmetkoftecisi.com
Address: Divanyolu Caddesi No. 12, 34122, Sultanahmet, Istanbul
Telephone: 0212 520 05 66
Casita Manti
Manti is a Turkish ravioli. It is not made with pasta, but a Turkish dough spread out super thin and then cut into squares that are later filled with a mince meat mix. Once cooked, the manta is served with garlic yoghurt which is absolutely delicious. It's kind of strange that you don't find manti in more places, so I've really put Casita in here not because it is the best necessarily, but because it is one of the only places I know that does this. Don't get me wrong, it's a cute little restaurant, they have one in Etilar and one in Bebek (there may be more), but if you are looking for something quite Turkish, or kind of different, it's definitely worth trying.
Website: http://www.casita.com.tr/mutfak.htm
Address: Nispetiye Cd. Yeni Carsi, No. 65A, Etiler
Telephone: 0212 263 7007
Website: http://www.casita.com.tr/mutfak.htm
Address: Nispetiye Cd. Yeni Carsi, No. 65A, Etiler
Telephone: 0212 263 7007
Asli Borek
Do you like pastries? Do you like one of the following:meat/cheese/spinach? If the answer to the previous two questions was yes, then I believe you will enjoy Borek. It is not something unique to Turkey, I believe they have a version in Greece, Bulgaria and other Eastern mediterranean countries. Asli borek is the first chain I am aware of that has chosen to focus entirely on the borek, it is layers of pastry filled with either cheese (most popular), meat (my favorite), or spinach (incase Popeye visits one day). Look out for the sign as they have outlets across Istanbul, and pop in for a quick snack. Having one piece of Borek won't ruin your appetite so you can even have it between meals.
Website: www.asliborek.com/2011/index.asp
Address & Telephone: Check here
Website: www.asliborek.com/2011/index.asp
Address & Telephone: Check here
Seafood
Balikci Sabahattin
Ever since my first and only visit to Sabahattin Balikcisi, I have searched for white fish that tasted like chicken. That might sound weird, but the fish I had in Sabahattin that night was as delicious as a piece of marinated, grilled, chicken breast, but much softer. The place is set in a beautiful outdoor setting (in summer) and it is really a nice ambiance close to the old town. There are other great fish restaurants in the city, but for me this was wonderful and not super expensive or posh.
Website: www.balikcisabahattin.com
Address: Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok. No:1 Cankurtaran - Eminönü / İSTANBUL
Telephone:0212 458 18 24
Website: www.balikcisabahattin.com
Address: Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok. No:1 Cankurtaran - Eminönü / İSTANBUL
Telephone:0212 458 18 24
Eftalya
I don't want to say too much about Eftalya, because I am not sure I have actually been there. I do know however that it is one of the most popular fish restaurants in Istanbul, and is intact located next to Vira Vira (the next restaurant) on the Bosphorus. I would suggest if you are going to one or the other to walk in, check out the ambiance and the menu and decide. I have heard that these fish restaurants have a habit of making customers order without showing them a menu and price list first - this inevitably leads to a surprise at the end of the meal so be careful.
Website: http://www.eftalya.net/
Address: Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad No:32 Arnavutköy
Telephone: (0212) 287 25 20
Website: http://www.eftalya.net/
Address: Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad No:32 Arnavutköy
Telephone: (0212) 287 25 20
Vira Vira
I really had a tough time finding an image of Vira Vira online, and frankly I'm not sure that this is it. If someone can send me one to [email protected], I will update this photo. Like I said above, Vira Vira and Eftalya are on the same street, and a pretty similar menu consisting mainly of fish. Definitely a nice area to go to for lunch or dinner, and if you do happen to be in the area during daylight hours and feel like a (longish) walk, you can walk all the way down from vira vira to Ashk Cafe (keep the Bosphorus on your left and keep walking until you hit the Makro supermarket, should take 25 minutes).
Address: Arnavutkoy Mah. 1 Cad. No. 48, Arnavutkoy
Telephone: 0212 257 18 05
Website: http://www.viravirabalik.com/
Address: Arnavutkoy Mah. 1 Cad. No. 48, Arnavutkoy
Telephone: 0212 257 18 05
Website: http://www.viravirabalik.com/
Lacivert
Definitely a super-smart place to go in Istanbul, you can tell that just by looking at the website. If you really want to impress your guests or treat yourself to a lovely evening on the Bosphorus with divine seafood, then Lacivert (which means navy blue in Turkish) is a great option for you. Obviously, such surroundings do come at a price, but the quality of the food, service and most importantly the view make it well worth it. Lacivert is located on the Asian side of Istanbul so if you, like most tourists, are staying on the European side, it will take you a while to get there by car. Lacivert have thought of this however, which is why they offer a boat service to take you to the restaurant from the European side, Rumeli Hisari to be exact. You will need to call for a reservation, so I suggest you get the info then.
Address: Korfez Caddesi No 57/A, Anadolu Hisari Istanbul
Telephone: 0216 413 42 24
Website: http://www.lacivertrestaurant.com
Address: Korfez Caddesi No 57/A, Anadolu Hisari Istanbul
Telephone: 0216 413 42 24
Website: http://www.lacivertrestaurant.com
Desserts
Saray Muhallebicisi
Saray is one of the fastest growing chains in Turkey. I remember when there was only one in Istiklal street, but now they seem to be all over Istanbul. You will tend to find mostly Turkish people there as it is famous for its traditional Turkish desserts. They are even in malls nowadays, and I don't know if it was a one off, but the last time i tried their desserts, I wasn't super impressed. It is still the benchmark in Turkish desserts though, and they have such a wide range that I'm sure you will find something to your liking. The famous thing they have is saray muhallebisi, a milk pudding that's quite delicious, but I would suggest you ask for it without the chocolate sauce they drown it in.
Website: http://www.saraymuhallebicisi.com/
Address: Istiklal Caddesi, No. 173, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0212 292 34 34
Website: http://www.saraymuhallebicisi.com/
Address: Istiklal Caddesi, No. 173, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0212 292 34 34
Gulluoglu
I don't know where or how Baklava originated, but I do know that Gulluoglu does my absolute favorite baklava in the world. If you are used to Arabic baklava you will find Turkish baklava different because it is soaked in sugar syrup. In fact, I would advise you to just consider this baklava as a totally different concept because it has a different taste, texture and feel. Usually you will get two flavors, pistachio and walnut and although the pistachio tends to be more popular I have a strong preference for the walnut option.
Website: http://www.gulluoglubaklava.com/
Location: Karakoy - If you tell any cab, they can take you there
Website: http://www.gulluoglubaklava.com/
Location: Karakoy - If you tell any cab, they can take you there
Turkish Delight - Haci Bekir
I would be lying if I said I knew the history of Haci Bekir, but I do know that these guys have been famous for making Turkish delight, or as we like to call it, Lokum, for a long long time (since 1777 actually!). They have a branch on Istiklal street, where we almost always go and buy gifts for friends abroad. I would recommend the single, or double pistachio to take away with you, but it you are going to try some Lokum in store, ask them if they have the one with Kaymak (clotted cream), it really is quite tasty!
Website: http://www.hacibekir.com.tr/eng/asayfa.html
Address: İstiklal Cad. No.83 / 6 34433 Beyoğlu / İstanbul
Telephone: 212 245 13 75 - 76
Website: http://www.hacibekir.com.tr/eng/asayfa.html
Address: İstiklal Cad. No.83 / 6 34433 Beyoğlu / İstanbul
Telephone: 212 245 13 75 - 76
Maras Dondurmasi
Maras dondurma (ice cream) can be found all over Istanbul. It's usually easy to tell a place that sells it because the guy selling it is all dressed up and putting on a show. Whats special about this ice cream is that it has an ingredient which makes it quite sticky, and gives the ice cream quit e unique taste. Capturing the serving of the ice cream on video also makes great video footage which you can post on Facebook and let your friends see how much fun you were having: see here.
Miscellaneous
Eat/Drink under the Galata bridge
I have to admit that I have never sat somewhere under the Galata bridge for a meal or drink, however every time I have passed it and seen people doing so, I have found it quite interesting, mainly because it's not often you see bars and restaurants located on a bridge. You may not find superb quality dining but if you happen to have read Orhan Pamuks book 'Istanbul', where he spends a lot of time talking about the Turks obsession with "Huzun", a word that most closely translates to melancholy, you are most likely to find it here. With views of the Bosphorus as well as the magnificent old city, this is a good spot to check out if you are coming back from the old city to the Taksim side, or if you are in the area. The address is the Galata bridge, which crosses the Golden Horn, and I would be lying if I recommended any one place in particular.
Breakfast at Rumeli Hisari
Rumeli Hisari has great historic significance, as it was a fortress built by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II around 1451, before he conquered what was then called constantinople. Yes, the one from the song. It is situated on the narrowest part of the Bosphorus, only 660m away from the Asian side of the city, where you will see the similar looking Anadolu Hisari. Interestingly, the fortress on the Asian side was built more than 50 years before the one on the European side (Rumeli Hisari). Nowadays, the fortress hosts a series of concerts every summer, but the reason it is featured here is because it is probably the best place to find many restaurants that offer traditional Turkish breakfast. I would recommend you explore the area on foot, and take your time to find a place to eat as options are plenty. Some restaurants even have lovely gardens in the back, but it seems kind of a waste when you have the beautiful Bosphorus right there.
Pide Doner - Kebab sandwich
Coming to Turkey and not trying Pide Doner (thinly sliced kebab in a turkish bread, stuffed with tomatoes and lettuce) is like going to Amsterdam and not admiring the tulips. Weak metaphors are the main reason I never made it as a rapper. Anyway, back to the point, not much we need to say about the kebab sandwich, as it is what w Turks are most famous for. I remember being asked often, when I lived in the UK, whether my dad had a Kebab shop. Funnily enough, he is, 15 years later, in the process of opening one at the moment, so I guess they had a point. You will find Pide Doner all across the city, just be on the lookout for a giant rotating slab of meat and a guy wearing an apron and sporting the ultimate sign of Turkishness, a mustache. If you do happen to know which spot does THE BEST kebab sandwiches in Istanbul, please let me know and I will check it out myself before putting it up on here. As a side note, something you will not find often outside Turkey is a kebab in durum bread. It is a much thinner bread than pide and is good because of the higher meat to bread ratio vs. pide bread.
Lahmacun @ Namli Kebap
If you are from or have been to the Middle East, you have probably heard of something called Lahm bel ajeen (translated as meat with dough). Well, this is the Turkish version of that, it's pretty much the same but I have to say, this place does THE BEST lahmacun in the world. Namli is a full on restaurant upstairs, but they have a takeaway section downstairs where I recommend you order yourself one lahmacun (two if you're a big eater) and one Ayran (Yoghurt drink). Lahmacun and Ayran go together like Nachos and salsa, like Vince Vaughn and Owen Wilson, like any other two things that you think go really well together. You get the point.
Address: Nispetiye Cad. Gonca Sok No:3 Levent
Telephone: 0212 2641049 - 0212 2845294/95/96 - 2796880/81
Website: www.namlikebap.com.tr
Address: Nispetiye Cad. Gonca Sok No:3 Levent
Telephone: 0212 2641049 - 0212 2845294/95/96 - 2796880/81
Website: www.namlikebap.com.tr